How to choose and how to use
The blush creates a feeling of freshness and youth of the skin. After applying tonal and masking the flaws, the color of our face becomes smooth, almost perfect, but unnatural. Therefore, after toning, so as not to turn into a wax doll, and look natural, I recommend making a small correction (to restore the skin volume, emphasize cheekbones, face oval) and apply blush.
Do not confuse the blush with bronzers and proofreaders. The blush have pink, peach, cherry, plum shades; the bronzer emphasizes your tan; the corrector creates on the face volume; highlighter highlights.
The blush is applied on the cheeks, gradually layering, so as not to overdo it, gradually adding to the tip of the nose and chin. The way of applying the blush depends on their texture
- Cream (with a dispenser, in a stick, in a jar) - put with the fingers or with the sponge. They are applied to the foundation before applying the powder.
- The powder (baked, in balls, crumbly) - apply with the brush. They are already applied to the powder.
Choose on your taste. I like cream or in a stick, they can be easily smeared with fingers.
The color of the blush
There is the rules of coloristic at the choosing at the color of blush. First, determine your color pattern (temperature, brightness, lightness, the presence of contrasts). Then, according to your color, choose the blush.
- The light girl with the skin of a cold tone and without contrasts in appearance choose the soft, unsaturated blush of the neutral-beige or pink tone.
- The dark girl with the swarthy skin choose a more intense cherry or plum shade of blush.
- For the girl with red hair and light eyes (color contrast, warm appearance) the blush of warm shades (peach or rusty).
If you are in doubt, choose a shade of blush the same as the color of the lips or the color of the lipstick.
The color of the skin
One of the biggest difficulties is to determine your color of the skin, the lightness and temperature. How to do it?
How to determine the lightness of the skin?
- The simplest way is the comparison. To do this, you can use the color scale of von Lushan or the the phototype scale of Fitzpatrick. And you can put another person next to you, or better a few - so immediately it will be clear how light you are or how dark
The Fitzpatrick Scale
- You can use automatic color detection, for example, using the mobile application Live palettes, you can hover the camera cursor on your skin and see the determined color, its code.
How to determine the temperature of the skin?
The temperature of the skin is determined by hemoglobin (gives the skin a red tint), carotene (responsible for the yellow tint) and melanin (brown tint). The warm skin is one that has a yellowish tone. Olive, pinkish shades are cold skin. Determining the temperature is easiest in the same way by comparing with another person. For example: Arya Stark has the warm undertones of the skin (yellowish undertone). Sansa Stark has the cold skin undertones (pinkish undertone).
- You can bring a white sheet of paper to your face - it's easier to distinguish shades
- "Gold /Silver". What jewelry do you like more? Gold or silver? You can try it on, you can imagine it in your mind. If you are more suited to gold jewelry - you have a warm tone, if silver - cold.
- The veins serve as an excellent guide! Consider the veins on your arms. The blue speaks about the cold undertone, the green ones - about the heat. By the way, not only the veins, but also the color of the lips, the color of the skin on the hair parting and even the color of the nail.
Eugene Malikova, makeup artist
The correction of skin imperfections
The principles of coloristics are actively used to correct skin imperfections. For example, to mask dark circles or bruises under the eyes.
How to choose the right color of concealer?
To hide the circles under the eyes best guided by the principle of complementary (opposite on the color circle) colors. The concealer (or proofreader) is the means that we need for this purpose. How to choose the right color?
At first, let's determine your shade of bruise:
The texture of the correctors are wax and silicone. The silicone is recommended for age-related skin. They do not clog their wrinkles. The wax does not dry the skin, but requires subsequent hardening to avoid rolling down. You do not need to apply a foundation over the corrector. You can apply the corrector with your fingers, with a brush, patting your fingers, without rubbing, on the intensity zone of the bruise (where the color is the brightest, usually at the inner corner of the eye).
If nothing happened?
- If the circles under the eyes could not be concealed, and you do not notice the corrector applied, then you need the same tone of the corrector, only deeper and more intense.
- If the circles under the eyes disappeared, but the corrector is visible, you need that corrector's shade, only less intense, lighter.
- If both circles are visible, and the corrector, you need a different shade.
Eugene Malikova, makeup artist