Makeup

How to choose and how to use

The blush creates a feeling of freshness and youth of the skin. After applying tonal and masking the flaws, the color of our face becomes smooth, almost perfect, but unnatural. Therefore, after toning, so as not to turn into a wax doll, and look natural, I recommend making a small correction (to restore the skin volume, emphasize cheekbones, face oval) and apply blush.

Do not confuse the blush with bronzers and proofreaders. The blush have pink, peach, cherry, plum shades; the bronzer emphasizes your tan; the corrector creates on the face volume; highlighter highlights.      


Application

The blush is applied on the cheeks, gradually layering, so as not to overdo it, gradually adding to the tip of the nose and chin. The way of applying the blush depends on their texture

  • Cream (with a dispenser, in a stick, in a jar) - put with the fingers or with the sponge. They are applied to the foundation before applying the powder.
  • The powder (baked, in balls, crumbly) - apply with the brush. They are already applied to the powder.

Choose on your taste. I like cream or in a stick, they can be easily smeared with fingers.

The color of the blush

Dress Assist

There is the rules of coloristic at the choosing at the color of blush. First, determine your color pattern (temperature, brightness, lightness, the presence of contrasts). Then, according to your color, choose the blush.

If you are at a loss to determine the color, you can use the Dress Assist application, which will pick up a palette and tell you which tones you need more to face: warm or cold.

If you:

  • The light girl with the skin of a cold tone and without contrasts in appearance choose the soft, unsaturated blush of the neutral-beige or pink tone.
  • The dark girl with the swarthy skin choose a more intense cherry or plum shade of blush.
  • For the girl with red hair and light eyes (color contrast, warm appearance)  the blush of warm shades (peach or rusty).

If you are in doubt, choose a shade of blush the same as the color of the lips or the color of the lipstick.

Eugene Malikova, makeup artist
931

Live Palettes

The color of the skin

One of the biggest difficulties is to determine your color of the skin, the lightness and temperature. How to do it?

Advice 1. Use bright daylight to analyze the color of the skin. Artificial lighting does not fit. Stand in front of the window, and it's best that you do not get straight rays.
Advice 2. On the skin of the face are often present redness, rashes; under the eyes - dark circles. It is better to navigate the unflattered parts of the body: the line of the chin, the skin on the neck, and the armpits.



How to determine the lightness of the skin?

  • The simplest way is the comparison. To do this, you can use the color scale of von Lushan or the the phototype scale of Fitzpatrick. And you can put another person next to you, or better a few - so immediately it will be clear how light you are or how dark

The Fitzpatrick Scale

  •  You can use automatic color detection, for example, using the mobile application Live palettes, you can hover the camera cursor on your skin and see the determined color, its code.

    Live PalettesLive PalettesLive PalettesLive PalettesLive PalettesLive Palettes

How to determine the temperature of the skin?

The temperature of the skin is determined by hemoglobin (gives the skin a red tint), carotene (responsible for the yellow tint) and melanin (brown tint). The warm skin is one that has a yellowish tone. Olive, pinkish shades are cold skin. Determining the temperature is easiest in the same way by comparing with another person. For example: Arya Stark has the warm undertones of the skin (yellowish undertone). Sansa Stark has the cold skin undertones (pinkish undertone).

Источник

Источник

Lifehacks:

  • You can bring a white sheet of paper to your face - it's easier to distinguish shades
  • "Gold /Silver". What jewelry do you like more? Gold or silver? You can try it on, you can imagine it in your mind. If you are more suited to gold jewelry - you have a warm tone, if silver - cold.
  • The veins serve as an excellent guide! Consider the veins on your arms. The blue speaks about the cold undertone, the green ones - about the heat. By the way, not only the veins, but also the color of the lips, the color of the skin on the hair parting and even the color of the nail. 
If you decide on the skin temperature is very difficult, perhaps you have a neutral undertone (greyish skin, in winter, due to lack of sunlight, many residents of the middle band shade the skin becomes grayish).
Determined with the lightness and temperature of the skin, you will not be mistaken with the choice of the desired shade of tonal remedy. At tonal means of warm shades usually in the name there is "golden", at cold shades - "beige", "natural beige".
More details on how to navigate in the choice of tonal means you will learn from the next article.

Eugene Malikova, makeup artist

1790

The correction of skin imperfections

The principles of coloristics are actively used to correct skin imperfections. For example, to mask dark circles or bruises under the eyes.

The concealer (or proofreader) is the means that we need for this purpose.


How to choose the right color of concealer?

To hide the circles under the eyes best guided by the principle of complementary (opposite on the color circle) colors. The concealer (or proofreader) is the means that we need for this purpose. How to choose the right color?

From the rules of coloring it is known that green is complimentary to red, blue to orange, purple to yellow. That's why , the red pimple is best hidden by a greenish corrector. And to hide the grey-blue bruise, we will use the orange (peach, apricot) corrector, for purple we will take the yellowish. Yes, every bruise, like all of us, is unique and has its own shade. Its color can be light grey, deep blue, violet, reddish.

At first, let's determine your shade of bruise:

Try to see some shades of red or purple (usually, they are more visible and easy to distinguish). If you see, boldly use the yellow proofreader. If the red-violet hues are not noticed or determined with a hue, it is very difficult to orientate to a grey-blue color and choose an apricot-type corrector, it is also a peach, it is also orange.

 The texture of the correctors are wax and silicone. The silicone is recommended for age-related skin. They do not clog their wrinkles. The wax does not dry the skin, but requires subsequent hardening to avoid rolling down. You do not need to apply a foundation over the corrector. You can apply the corrector with your fingers, with a brush, patting your fingers, without rubbing, on the intensity zone of the bruise (where the color is the brightest, usually at the inner corner of the eye).

Do not use a regular skin color corrector (lighter or whiter than your foundation). He will not disguise bruises, but will only give them a light grey shade. The tonal cream will not cope with the masking, because it does not have sufficient density.

If nothing happened?

  • If the circles under the eyes could not be concealed, and you do not notice the corrector applied, then you need the same tone of the corrector, only deeper and more intense.
  • If the circles under the eyes disappeared, but the corrector is visible, you need that corrector's shade, only less intense, lighter.
  • If both circles are visible, and the corrector, you need a different shade.

Eugene Malikova, makeup artist

1275
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